Monday, 30 January 2017

Blog Bulletin


The Canteen, Nailsworth

This Saturday we return to The Canteen at Nailsworth. There are plenty of options for routes there and back. I'll be absent for the next 2 weeks, as I'm taking George to race at Abingdon. Unless anyone else wants to put out some courses for Saturday, I'm going to leave the choice to the ride leaders. With a wet week ahead (apart from Wednesday), they'll be in a better position to assess the safest routes on the day.



Wednesday evening's Knight Rider outing saw 6 members complete the Chalford Loop in reverse. It's surprising just how different a ride can be when the ups become the downs, and the downs become the ups. 

I can reveal exclusively that Mark is our latest MCCC member. Like Graham, he comes from Sherston and is a member of Sherston Velo CC. They both rode over together for the start of the ride and then peeled off outside of Tetbury on the way back.

There's still plenty of room in the peloton, and with this week's excursion to Chippenham promising as usual to be a lot of fun, make sure you come along.

Riders: Graham, James H, Mark, Peter C, Phil and Tim W






They think of everything at The Old Stables, Castle Combe

Rides had been running like clockwork for some time. Take our visit to Oaksey Village Hall, for instance. Our estimated time of arrival for the owner of the cafe was 11.45am. We got there at 11.48am. A best guess on the number of riders was 10. There were 10 of us.


The Sporting Group inside The Old Stables, Castle Combe
(This and the photograph below courtesy of Lyndon)

The wheel didn't exactly fall off on Saturday, but it did have a bit of a wobble. The perhaps unrealistic challenge (my fault entirely) was for the Sporting Group to tackle quite a lumpy 36 miles and time their arrival at The Old Stables, Hullavington with the Social Group who would have clocked up 30 miles over a flatter course. 

The Social Group kept their part of the deal, but a puncture at Tresham, a general feeling of weariness and a unanimous need for coffee and cake, meant that we didn't progress beyond The Old Stables' sister cafe at Castle Combe.



Tommy has 40 winks on the sofa inside The Old Stables, Castle Combe



It's okay, he was only joking

I did ring Tim H to let him know, by which time the trio had just finished their refreshments.

I'm going to look at the courses again and see if I can make some adjustments.


Peter C ready to leave Castle Combe

As for the cafe itself, my thick wedge of coffee and walnut cake would easily have fed a family of four. The sponge was moist and the tasty butter cream was generously applied. It easily passed the MCCCCC (Malmesbury Clarion Cycling Club Cake Certification) which insists that a slice of cake must be able to stand upright on the plate. Inferior flimsy examples that have to be led on one side, can never expect to gain full accreditation.

With the cake priced at £2.80 and my pot of tea costing £1.50, the combination easily came under the £5 ceiling.

Social Group: Paul, Steve C and Tim H.

Sporting Group: Andy Parker, Ian, Karine, Lyndon, Peter C, Tim W and Tommy.





Mike Greer has very kindly put together some instructions for bike cleaning. This isn't meant to insult anyone's intelligence. Just because we ride bicycles there's a presumption that somehow we must be experts when it comes to maintaining them. This is the first in a short series. In the next installment Mike will take us through puncture repairs.

Keeping your bike clean has many benefits:
  • It helps to keep your bike mechanics functioning smoothly.
  • Creates a good image for the club.
  • Makes roadside repairs easier and less messy.
  • Keeps costs down as things don't wear out as quickly.
You'll need the following:
  • 2 x buckets (1 will suffice, but 2 will make the job easier)
  • 2 x sponges
  • Cleaning/degreasing agent (washing up liquid does the trick)
  • Old tooth brush
  • Paint brush
  • Clean polishing cloths
  • Wax polish if you really love your bike
  • Oil (bike oil of course, what type is up to you)
Here are the step by step instructions:
  • Create an active foam in your bucket using hot water and washing up liquid.
  • Ideally using a hard standing area, begin cleaning the bike by sponging the top and bottom of the saddle, handlebar tape, hoods and brake levers. Next tackle the top tube and then the rest of the frame.
  • Remove the front wheel and put it to one side. Wash the forks and brake, paying particular attention to the condition of the brake pads (blocks). Check that they still have some wear left and are free of any foreign objects embedded in the surface.
  • Remove the rear wheel. Either support the frame or turn the bike upside down. Repeat the cleaning and checking as per the front wheel.
  • Leave the bike to one side.
  • Wash the front wheel making sure that you check the braking surface of the rim. Wash the tyre and check for any damage and/or embedded flints etc. Remove as required.
  • Wash the rear wheel as per the front one, then using the paint brush clean the cassette and hub.
  • Rinse the wheels with cold water, ideally from a second bucket. If preferred, use a garden hose, but ensure the water pressure is kept away from the bearings. Water ingress will very quickly lead to their destruction.
  • Return the wheels to the bike frame. Turn the bike back onto its wheels or remove from its support. With the old tooth brush or paint brush, clean the chain and gears and remove any grease/muck from the gear jockey wheels.
  • Wash down the frame with clean water.
  • Working from the top down, dry the saddle, frame, chain, gears, chain ring(s), hubs and spokes.
  • Dry the chain, gears and chain ring(s), hubs and spokes.
  • Apply oil sparingly to the chain and gear jockey wheels. Oil any exposed gear and gear cables, and brake/gear hinge points.
  • Remove any excess oil on the chain by holding the chain lightly with a dry cloth and turning the pedals backwards.
  • If you have cleated pedals, at this point using more hot soapy water and a toothbrush, clean the pedals paying attention to the cleat retaining springs. Rinse off the soapy water. Dry and lightly oil the springs etc.
  • Now to finish, using a wax polish, wax and polish the frame.
Hey presto! You now have a clean bike, as shiny as when you first bought it.

Depending on the weather, a thorough cleaning, such as the one described above, would normally be carried out once a month.

Light cleaning of your drive chain, chain, chain ring(s), gears, brakes and tyres should take place weekly. This can easily be done with clean cloths and oil. 

The choice is yours. 10 minutes a week or expensive repair bills. Not only will your bike be nicer to ride, it will last longer and cost less! Also, your fellow Clarions will be much more willing to help if you have a breakdown.

The fitting of full mudguards will prevent some of the mess landing on your beautiful steed, especially in winter. Mountain bike crud catchers only protect you. They won't stop the rider following you from getting a face full of wet mud.

Mike Greer 

3 comments:

  1. Nice one Tim, hopefully no insult will be taken. If it is oh dear!!!

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  2. Good article Mike. One thing I would like to add regarding washing up liquid, bear in mind folks that it contains sodium (salt!) so be extra thorough with the rinsing stage. With so many variables it's difficult to know how much of a connection there is, but I have seen lots of corrosion of aluminium parts on winter bikes that otherwise seem like they haven't been neglected, ie: they have been washed regularly.
    Case in point...winter wheels. Now I know most people wouldn't design a pair of wheels for winter use with aluminium spoke nipples, but the fact is a fair few people will take the wheels that came with their bike (complete with blingy nipples...oo-er!) and then when they upgrade to new fancier ones the old wheels get resigned to winter use. Seems logical enough, but then they bring them to me a while later asking if I can retension/true them only to find that the aluminium nipples have seized completely, or even turned to dust! I'm not suggesting that this is a widespread problem, but I've seen it often enough to feel it's worth mentioning. It's also expensive to put right, especially given that the customer usually thinks they're just bringing the wheel in for a cheap simple job!

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  3. Great points Gary, I personally use washing up liquid, mainly because I'm a tight old sod. However recently I've started to use a Wiggle product based around lemon/orange. Makes the bike smell nice and acts as a great degreaser. I didn't want to start a pro's con's of various products eg Muck Off etc. Hence the choice of washing up liquid which as I say I use regularly. Though I do tend to rinse well and am sort of anal re my bikes cleanliness! As some have noted.

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