Cycling in Northern Thailand with Simon Barnes

Simon proudly sporting his club jersey

You wake in the morning to various birds tweeting and whistling, across the ground lies a low lying layer of mist, the sky is clear and blue.  The Sun is just beginning to warm up the air from the overnight 18 degrees C.  An air of tranquillity pervades.  A perfect way start to a day and to venture out with your bike.

Unfortunately, I had no bike!

I didn’t want to rent one, so, plan for the day; off to the Local Bike Shop.  But which one?  So, on to the internet and search.  Chiang Mai (our location) is apparently the ‘capital’ for cycling in the region and there are a plethora of bike shops.  I found one within relatively close proximity; however, the reviews for it looked grim!  We decided that we would call them first, my wife being Thai made that easy.  She got a very warm response from the shop and very much welcomed a visit from us.

After some interesting driving challenges in Chiang Mai we found the shop.  Although my Thai is quite limited, I felt they were on my wavelength and they realised I had sufficient knowledge to know what I wanted.  With my personal interpreter (wife), I selected a bike at what I calculated as about £400-500 cheaper than UK prices.  They checked their stock and said I could take it with me.  Immediately they set about preparing it and setting saddles height etc., It was at this time, my wife showed great interest to have a bike too.  Poor credit card!  Now they were preparing 2 bikes and getting helmets and shoes sorted.  Bikes duly paid for, 30 minutes later we departed with a good impression of the bike shop we loaded the car and set off to our house.

So, why did the bike shop get such bad reviews?  I thought they were great.  The reviewers seemingly were not able to speak Thai and the owner said it often happens that foreigners (Farang – as Thais call us) visit the shop and either stand and say nothing or gesticulate, and then complain when they get a bad experience at the shop.  Luckily, my wife is Thai!!

Our Thai house is in the country side and I looked forward to exploring the small roads and riding between the paddy fields and having glorious weather.

Problem 1:  Garmin, whilst it was able to provide a route for me, did not give me any idea of the type of road.  Having planned a 40Km ride, I had to curtail it as I ran out of tarmac road and onto a gravel/ dirt road.  Somehow I did not fancy 5-6km on that surface.  So, for my first few outings there were many U-turns and grumbling peeps from my Garmin!

Problem 2: The rules of the road in Thailand do exist; however, once you hit country roads, I soon learned to treat any wheeled vehicle as my enemy.  I remember approaching a junction and as I turned left, directly in front of me approaching the junction on the wrong side was a moped!  How I missed a collision I do not know, that certainly raised the adrenaline levels.  The main roads can be OK as a number have very wide hard shoulders, but, these are populated by mopeds travelling erratically and at speed.

Problem3: Very rapidly the morning temperature rises up to 30 -34 degrees, a generous smearing of sun cream is absolutely vital.  Together with this, dehydration can be rapid; a generous supply of water/liquid needs to be taken.

Some of the many Paddy Fields

Most of the routes I took were very flat; however, it was not always easy to develop any reasonable speed as some roads surfaces were quite poor or strewn with gravel.  In some places I took a very leisurely pace, which in reality was really nice as I was able to absorb the surroundings more.  I often saw rice farmers in the fields, invariably they would stop and watch me cycle by – I generally would greet them in my best Thai ( Sawasdee Krab) and they were delighted to respond likewise with a big smile.

 As I mentioned, my wife, Ann also purchased a bike so she could join me.  After a short ride to get her used to gears etc.,  she felt happy to go a little further… we cycled about 3 miles and she said she was hungry (very typical)… prompted by a small local restaurant we had just passed!

Time for coffee

Talking to the restaurant owner, apparently the road we were on was a regular route for a local club that did a 600 a.m. ride every day at high speed, I assume to gain the benefit of a quite road.  On the whole I never saw many cyclists on the routes I planned.  I realised after visiting the local bike shop again, in Chiang Mai there is a park that is frequented by cyclist where they do circuits without the hassle of the crazy Chiang Mai traffic.  Another local challenge is the 11km climb to the Temple that sits up on Doi Suthep Mountain (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wat_Phra_That_Doi_Suthep).  This will be a challenge on one of my trips in the coming year.    Also on the nearby mountain Doi Inthanon sits the Thai National Observatory where temperatures can drop into minus figures.

Ann enjoying her new bike

Anyway, back to cycling – so back to Ann’s cycling, having had a typical Thai lunch with a modicum of spiciness, we set off into the Thai country lanes again passing a Temple on the way.  Dogs can be a problem as they tend to be relatively uncontrolled in Thailand.  We approached a dog that had that look in its eye!  We passed it with some trepidation and carried on into the roads between the rice fields, the heat of the Sun now pounding down.  We cycled about 10 miles in all; Ann very pleased having thoroughly enjoyed it.  The next outing for me, I did have a problem with a snarling dog that required a quick sprint to prevent a nasty bite coming my way.  Sadly, Ann is not so keen to cycle in the UK, mainly because of the temperature currently.

Another great thing in Thailand is being able to get a massage at a very reasonable price (avoid the places with lots of pretty girls enticing you inside!!).  I always take any opportunity to have a foot/leg massage and time permitting a full Traditional Thai Massage.  I find this eases my muscles that get used in cycling.  Thai massage involves stretching as well as muscle massage.  It’s a shame any massage in the UK is so expensive.

Whilst I only cycled a limited number of rides with short distances, I thoroughly enjoyed cycling mid-winter under blue skies with no requirement to load on the layers.  Seems strange to have a cyclists tan mid winter!  I’m looking forward to extending my cycling in Thailand on my 2015 visits and perhaps meeting other cyclists on my travels.

Jack and Grace Cotton Memorial 105km Audax

Aztec West, taken on our return

The Jack and Grace Cotton Memorial 105km Audax is now in its 15^th year. In honour of their work for cancer charities, this year all proceeds were going to Cyclists Fighting Cancer.

The ride starts just off of the M5 from the Aztec West Business Park. The facilities there are excellent with plenty of free parking. There’s a large atrium housing a café and toilets. Those who don’t like to stray too far from their best friend, didn't need to worry, as no one seemed to mind if you brought your bike indoors.

With 250 riders signed up there was a choice of departure times to avoid congestion at the controls. George and I opted for the latest possible start at 9.30am, hoping that by this time, any lingering ice would have already melted. Judging by the trickle that eased out from Aztec West with us, most of the others had already left.

Having to negotiate a busy motorway junction is definitely something we never have to encounter on our club rides. It’s easy to take our rural location for granted. On the plus side, trying to keep up with the flow of traffic, particularly across the roundabouts, meant that we set a lively pace and it wasn’t long before we reached the open countryside.

As we headed northwards, not exactly hugging the banks of the River Severn, but they weren’t too distant, our best laid plans quickly unravelled, as we came across patches of black ice. We were fortunate with most of them, as other riders had already dismounted and seeing our approach, shouted to warn us. It was a shame because in all other respects, it was perfect cycling weather.

Arriving in Berkley, our second and final information control, confusion reigned.  Stopping to note the name of the café situated on the corner, others not so familiar with the workings of their brevet card were desperately asking where they had to get it stamped. Matters weren’t helped by the café in question being filled with cyclists. As to whether they were also on the Jack and Grace Cotton or the Doctor Foster’s Audax, which just happened to be travelling in the opposite direction, wasn’t clear. Either way, it all added to the fun.

After Berkley there was a fast running section along the cycle lane on the A38 before we turned off and went into Frampton on Severn. Here, I was pleased to find the swing bridge over the Gloucester & Sharpness Canal firmly in place and so we sped up to get across in case there was an imminent opening.

Just before the control at the Anchor Inn, Epney I was surprised to see a bare chested man wrapping a towel around his torso. His surfboard provided a possible explanation. Later reference to the Severn Bore tide timetable confirmed that there had indeed been a bore.

The Anchor Inn, Epney

The Anchor Inn was full of rustic charm. Teas and coffees were being sold by the mug. This was a no-nonsense establishment. With no coffee machine in sight, one person asked for a cappuccino. Obligingly the lady behind the bar headed for the kitchen and for some reason I was immediately reminded of the Blackadder Goes Forth sketch where Baldrick makes the coffee.

Fortified by my mug of tea we completed the last part of the outward leg up to Quedgeley on the outskirts of Gloucester.

Steering a homeward course we rode down through Stonehouse to Dursley. This might not be the hilliest of rides, but don’t be fooled, there are still some ascents to be conquered, a prime example being the climb out of Dursley.

Chocolate marble cake at Tortworth

Our next control was the Tortworth Estate Farm Shop. With so many cyclists in need of a hot drink and some cake, a certain amount of patience was required. Full credit though to the staff, who I’m sure could not have worked any harder or faster, had they tried. A strawberry crumble slice, a wedge of chocolate marble cake and a decent pot of tea, tee'd us up nicely for the last 18km back to the Swan Hotel at Almondsbury.

The Audax UK banner being put to good use 

This well organised ride is a fitting tribute to Jack and Grace Cotton and one which the Audax Club Bristol can be justifiably proud of.

Course details can be found here

Club Ride Saturday 17th January 2015

Somewhere between Coates and Cherrington
(Click once to enlarge photographs)

As much as I enjoy visiting some of our favourite haunts, I always relish (no pun intended) club rides to new coffee stops. This morning we made our maiden visit to Jack's café in Cirencester.

Five Clarions mustered outside of the Town Hall. I’d grown accustomed to the scaffolding around the front and now that it’s been removed, it’s left the building looking strangely bare. Whilst we waited for any latecomers, Andy Poolman pulled up in his car and making sure that he didn’t allow too much of the heat to escape from inside, wished us well.

With no other Clarions in sight, we set off. Riding up Blicks Hill we passed Ted who looked as though he’d come to collect the milk from his doorstep. Without stopping we exchanged pleasantries. Well, sort of. Ted questioned our sanity and we urged him to jump on the back of our peloton.

I think it’s fair to say that we were all feeling confident about the ride. The sun seemed to be making an excellent job of transforming any lingering snow into harmless slush. 

The ride continued in much the same vein until we reached the roads around Ewen where we encountered long stretches of compacted snow and ice. Safety was paramount and we crawled along at a snail’s pace keeping as straight a line as possible and resisting any temptation to use our brakes for fear of skidding. 

I say we, Andy Parker was actually riding his recumbent tricycle and with much greater stability, he didn’t have to restrict his speed, as we did. In fact Andy took on the role of ‘minesweeper’ and regularly shouted warnings back to us. With an orange light on top and a couple of bags of rock salt in his panniers, he’d have made a very effective ‘gritter.’

About 2 miles out from Cirencester the roads improved dramatically and at long last we were able to get the legs moving properly and generate some worthwhile body heat.

Jack's cafe, Cirencester

Spirits lifted, we all safely arrived at Jack's café. Here, there was a splendid selection of cakes on display. I was immediately drawn to the Victoria Sponge which had about an inch of jam and cream running through the middle, but instead opted for an apricot flapjack.

After the torture of the outward leg, we resolved to find a much safer way home. It’s funny how we say these things and then when we’re warm and chatting amiably over hot drinks and cake, we think everything is well again with the World and promptly disregard the promise we’d earlier made to ourselves.

Clarions nervously negotiate the snow and ice

And so it was that in buoyant mood we took the Stroud road out of Cirencester and then peeled off towards Coates. However, before too long even Andy had to dismount when we reached an ascent made treacherous by the deadly ice. This was by no means the last time we’d have to get off. Walking was unavoidable, but doing so safely on cleats wasn’t easy. The snowfall was definitely much worse than we’d previously experienced.

A Christmas card scene

Eventually we made it to Cherrington and turning southwards towards Tetbury, we found the roads in a much better state. Just outside of the town we parted company with Andy and returned to Malmesbury via Shipton Moyne, grateful that we had done so in one piece.

Club Ride Saturday 10th January 2015

Tension mounts in Dictionary Corner as Suzie investigates

Well I’ve checked and uncancelled, much to my surprise, is actually a word or at least according to the Collins English Dictionary it is, even though until this morning I’d never heard it uttered before.

I’ll start at the beginning. When Mark and I pulled in we found Andy Parker and Karen sheltering underneath the scaffolding above the entrance to the Town Hall. Who’s Karen I hear you ask. Well, she happens to be French and has recently moved to Malmesbury. Hopefully over the coming weeks we’ll see more of her and you’ll get to meet her yourself.

Since switching to a set of Continental puncture resistant tyres I’ve never had so many punctures. I told Andy that I had to quickly pop down to Whites to buy yet more inner tubes and that I’d be back shortly.

Just off of the High Street I saw Howard striding out with some purpose in mind, heading for the Town Hall. Exchanged shouts from one side of the road to the other revealed that the club ride was off. Apparently the Chippenham Wheelers had already called theirs off and Phil and Steve were no longer coming.

As I was trying to safely store (force into my saddlebag) my new inner tubes outside of Whites, Howard now clearly on a mission of some importance appeared and informed me that the ride was uncancelled, and that he was on his way home to change.

Presumably he must have knocked on Tim H’s door, as the two of them, arrived a short while later within a whisker of each other.

Without further delay Howard announced that our destination would be The Canteen at Nailsworth and we set off along the Foxley Road into the strong headwind. Howard and Andy bravely rode at the front whilst the rest of us gratefully tucked in behind them.

Turning northwards up through Easton Grey to Westonbirt and beyond we were buffeted by a lively crosswind. The gradual incline didn’t help matters and it was with some relief that we reached the highest point of the ascent near Kingscote.

This was now pay-back time and with the wind behind us, we hurtled down through Horsley, stopping briefly at the temporary traffic lights that have been there for well over a year and into Nailsworth.

Participants on the uncancelled club ride

Refreshments at The Canteen met with everyone’s approval and with the sun still shining we took our leave. A gentle climb out of Nailsworth up through Ball’s Green to Minchinhampton and then onto Avening made for a pleasant ride.

Just outside of Long Newnton there was a parting of the waves with three riders electing to put in a few extra miles whilst the others headed for their respective homes.

Club Ride Saturday 3rd January 2015

A Missed Opportunity (For Some)

Having looked forward to this ride for ages, the first Saturday club ride in 2015, the gloomy weather forecast did not look very encouraging. Slowly MCCC made up its mind and following a flurry of electronic communications collectively decided that Sunday would be the better day of the weekend to ride. This was very disappointing. Where was the passion, the dedication? It was, after all, the first Saturday ride of the year, what if potential new members turned up? Having a decent level of fitness for the summer can only be achieved through doing the winter miles! At this point I have to confess that I was more than happy not to be riding Saturday, who really wants to ride in the rain?

And then this, “Weather still not looking pretty for the morning. However, Steve & I still planning to ride. Hope to see someone at least at the Jackdaw” Phil’s inspirational and motivating email! How could I refuse to go now? Well I couldn’t and decided to bite the bullet and ride. In fact 5 of us set off but decided not to chance our arm in a new coffee destination and instead set our compass for Relish, always a warm welcome there.

Of the ride, it was indeed wet, but not that wet and it certainly wasn’t too cold. Arriving safely at Relish, cake and coffee consumed, we set off for home and the return journey was in fact dryish. The pace picked up a bit towards the end but nothing too fast to prevent chatter. Thoroughly enjoyable ride in the end and definitely had the feeling that those who decided not to attend did miss out! Only a bit, though.

Riders: Howard, Steve, Phil, Dave and Andy Poolman. 32 miles ridden. 

Howard

Poor Student 200km Audax Saturday 3rd January 2015

Oxford, home of the Poor Student Audax

Me and George had spoken about riding the Poor Student 200km Audax for some time.  A running joke had developed between us, each mocking the other’s inability to get around the course, but with no serious intention of actually taking part.  As time went on and the ride got ever closer, we both began to give it serious consideration. My biggest fear was the possibility of snow and ice. When the weather forecast showed this to be unlikely and with just a week to go, we took the plunge and entered. During the preceding week the outlook did worsen, but by then, for us, there was no going back.

We arrived in good time for the 8.00am start from the Park and Ride on the northern outskirts of Oxford. We found the organiser who had sensibly taken refuge in a bus shelter and received our Brevet cards. As predicted, the temperature was hovering a few degrees above freezing and it was raining. Estimating numbers is always difficult, but there were at least 100 riders.

A blast of a horn signalled the start and we were underway. With 130 miles to cover, most riders slipped into a relaxed pace. Tightly group, one lost a piece of equipment from his bike. Those following had to take avoiding action and with various warning shouts being called, it looked for a moment as if a pileup was about to occur.

We always wear our club kit on Audax rides and it normally gets a mention or two. This time someone in the peloton quipped that we would be able to easily ‘pack’ when we got to Malmesbury, which raised a ripple of laughter. The fact that the route went through Malmesbury was seen by us as a bit of an insurance policy, but if I did fold I’d still have to go back to Oxford to collect the car.

The first stage of around 37 miles was to Chipping Campden. Breaking the journey down into sections made it feel less intimidating. It wasn’t too long before my waterproof gloves were completely sodden, which resulted in the loss of any feeling in my fingertips. Worse still, were my feet. I was experimenting with a pair of thermal socks.  They were doing an excellent job of keeping my ankles and shins toasty warm, but nothing for my toes. How long does it take before frostbite sets in, I wondered. Nothing particularly hilly comes to mind, but there were some long, gradual ascents.

The Bantam Cafe at Chipping Campden

Eventually we arrived at the Bantam Café in Chipping Campden where our Brevet cards were stamped.  I gratefully grasped my mug of tea, relishing the heat and eagerly devoured a slab of spiced fruit cake.  Others had gathered around the roaring open fire and were desperately trying to dry out loose items of clothing.

Plenty of cake to choose from at The Bantam Cafe

Stage two saw us heading for Malmesbury with roughly 42 miles to complete.  A beast of a hill out of Chipping Campden was just one of many. The rain might have eased, but there was now thick mist on the high ground. The thundering descents left me frozen to the core, whereas the ascents made me work hard and feel less cold. I was definitely enjoying the ups more than the downs.

Having reached Chedworth it was quite literally downhill all the way into Cirencester. Over familiar roads through Ewen, Oaksey, Hankerton and Charlton, we arrived at the High Street in Malmesbury. Small withdrawals secured the necessary ATM receipts to prove that we’d arrived.

Malmesbury's Market Cross

At this point I must confess that we allowed ourselves the luxury of popping home for some beans on toast. We also threw our gloves into the spin dryer and changed our wet socks.

The last 51 miles saw George sustain a puncture not far from Purton, mercifully still in the daylight and then he flipped his chain just outside of Highworth.  I discovered that the chain had somehow become knotted.  Just when I thought I’d have to take out a pin, the chain magically unraveled and we were back on our way. By now it was dark and with the temperature having noticeably dropped, there was a worrying glint to the road surface.

Having reached Shrivenham we met up with some other Poor Students and rode with them for a couple of miles. We then pushed on across the Oxfordshire countryside over deserted lanes, occasionally passing through small settlements.

At Botley the Garmin died of exhaustion and we had to revert to the paper version. A rather tricky set of instructions saw us cycle up the slip road onto a short section of the A420 before cutting onto a cycle path which ran parallel with the A34. A little more trickery saw us back at the start.

Needing receipts to prove that we’d returned within the time allowed we ordered a KFC and ate hungrily.

Setting off for home George quickly fell asleep leaving me with my memories of what had been a challenging, but rewarding ride, for company. 

Christmas Rides Roundup

Christmas Eve

There were ‘Ten Clarions Cycling’ (to the tune of The Twelve Days of Christmas) for this traditional festive curtain-raiser. Following a lap of ‘the circuit’ it was all back to Howard’s where a veritable feast had been laid on. I understand Alison’s homemade mince pies were a triumph! On behalf of those who went, thank you Howard and Alison for your warm hospitality.

Saturday 27th December

Tim H and Andy Parker flew the Clarion flag and rode to Relish. Well done both of you.

New Year’s Day

This was a bit of a late call and so apologies to anyone who would have ridden had they had more notice. Whilst I’m at it, I might as well get all of the apologies over and done with. And so apologies to anyone who might have waited out on the course for us. The same goes to any riders if they made their own way to the Divine Café at Cherhill. Read on for explanations.

Steve arrived at the start with news of a large meet taking place outside of the Volunteer Inn at Great Somerford involving three local hunts. As our intended route down through Little Somerford and into Dauntsey put us on a potential collision course, we heeded Steve’s warnings and changed tack. Instead, we cycled on the top road to Brinkworth, turned down Callow Hill and then up Chesley Hill at Grittenham to Tockenham, which put us back on track.

Those of us old enough to remember life before the M4 Motorway will know that the A4 was once the main road from Bath to London. As such, it was littered with filling stations and transport cafes much favoured by lorry drivers. In those days the Divine Café was a kiosk on the site of a filling station. The opening of the motorway led to the demise of many of these establishments and Cherhill’s garage was no exception. After a number of different uses, it eventually became the café we know today.

Arriving on what was once the forecourt I noticed that there were quite a few cars parked. We dismounted and made our way inside. Glancing around the tables, I saw that there were only one or possibly two seats free. Hoping that someone might be about to leave, I approached the counter and without me uttering a word, I was informed by a member of staff that if we went outside, she would come out and take our order.

We did as asked, but noted that people who entered the café after us, didn’t re-appear and so must have been accommodated inside. The prospect of sitting outside on an open patio which had clearly been vacated for the winter didn’t appeal. Just because we’d arrived by bicycle it didn’t mean that we wanted to take our refreshments in the fresh air. Feeling as if we’d been discriminated against, as no motorist would have been instructed to go outside, we chose to take our custom elsewhere.

We decided to try our luck at the White Horse Inn at Compton Bassett, which conveniently was on our way back. Seeking to avoid the embarrassment of being refused service, it was decided that I should make a lone approach to test the water. With some trepidation I entered the busy bar and spoke to a lady who I took to be the licensee. Could we come inside for coffees? Why of course.

Warmed by the log burner we settled down with our drinks and bowls of perfectly cooked chunky chips, and enjoyed the cosy atmosphere. The staff were extremely pleasant and we soon felt at home. Leaving wasn’t going to be easy.

With the light outside already beginning to fade, it was time to make tracks. My puncture impeded our progress somewhat, but with a strong tailwind we sailed down to Foxham, into Christian Malford, through to Sutton Benger and up to Seagry where we came across the remnants of the hunt. Safely negotiated, we said farewell to Steve at Startley and rode back into town.

http://connect.garmin.com/course/8591970 (Intended course)